SL720-Quick-Reference.pdf (21.38 Kb)
SL720_manual.pdf (174.39 Kb)
SL720_PC_manual.pdf (32.04 Kb)
As used by champion Duncan Osbourn at the 3D Masters! Watch his winning flights here!
The SmartLock 720 gyro is designed to take the CSM range one step higher.
For the SL720, CSM have chosen to replace the traditional ceramic sensor used in our other gyros with a new silicon micro-machined sensor from Analog Devices, America's leading sensor manufacturer.
This gyro offers a unique combination of bandwidth, dynamic range and stability - meaning it can respond quicker, cope with faster pirouette speeds, and is drift free!
Interested? Find out more here!
NEW features
- New ultra-stable, high bandwidth, wide dynamic range silicon SMM sensor
- Can work with all standard digital servos, including the Futaba 9251. Customisable to use 760 or 1520 microsecond centre pulsewidth. (Not usable with conventional servo)
- Three-stage power supply regulation gives you the widest choice in operating voltage (3.3 to 8.4v) to optimise servo performance
- Individually temperature calibrated - no more than 5 degrees drift per MINUTE at temperatures between -10 and +50 Centigrade
- Vibration Isolating Mounting System (also available separately) to minimise vibration from powerful engines
The gyro comes with all leads required, NEW Vibration Isolating Mounting System, PC interface and software, and full instructions, PLUS a free computer Video-CD of Duncan Osbourn in action!
Specifications:
37mm x 26mm, 16mm high, weight 18g
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SL720 Gyro Troubleshooting
The gyro will not enter the Quick-Setup routine
The gain is probably too low - increase the gain for both modes to 100% for now, and return them to the desired setting later. Remember also to turn off ATS (revo) mixing.
The model pirouettes violently as soon as it starts to lift off
The gyro sense has been set incorrectly. Check that the servo operating sense has been set correctly - when you put in a left turn command, the leading (fatter) edges of the tail rotor blades should point right. If this is not happening, change the servo reversing of the tail rotor channel in your transmitter. Then repeat Quick Setup to set the gyro sense correctly.
The tail wags from side to side in the hover
Reduce the gyro gain, using the ATV/travel adjust on your gain channel
The model flies fine in one gyro mode but wags in the other
You have too much gain in just the one mode. Reduce the gain on the mode that wags.
The tail response is not crisp enough
Increase the gyro gain. It is best to increase it gradually, until you see the tail start to wag, and then reduce it again until the wag stops.
The model wags even when the gain is very low
The problem is probably with the linkage - check that the linkage is not suffering from slop or friction, and that the tail hub bearings do not lock up under load. You should also check your servo. A slow servo or a very short servo arm may also cause this problem.
In mode 1, the model slowly rotates
Carry out the Quick Setup again, so that the gyro can sample an accurate stick centre value. Remember to keep the stick trims centred, and not to touch the sticks or the model during the power up time.
The model hovers well in mode 1, but rotates in mode 0
Repeat the Quick Trim procedure.
Even in calm conditions, the model suffers continuous small movements of the tail. It sometimes appears to drift.
The problem is most likely to be caused by vibration. Check that the wires leading to the gyro are properly supported - a long stretch of flapping wire may cause the gyro to move too much, and an over-tight anchorage may prevent the anti-vibration mount from working correctly. If you cannot eliminate vibration, try turning on the Vibration filter in Quick Setup.
An alternative cause for this problem is fluctuating engine torque.
The model flies fine on the first flight, but after a while the tail starts to wag
Fast gyro and servo combinations can run down the battery. Cycle the receiver battery and check its performance. You should consider using a fast Delta-peak charger to top up the battery between flights.
The model was fine last season, but now the tail wags
Check that the tail control linkage moves freely, paying especial attention to the pitch slider and the tail hub bearings. The receiver battery may have developed a high internal resistance - cycle the battery and check the capacity. The capacity may seem normal at low discharge rates but drop suddenly at say 3 amps.
The left and right hand stops are not equal. On one side the stops are slow and on the other they are bouncy.
Carry out Quick Trim, and make adjustments to the linkage if necessary (see the manual for details). If the problem continues, use the PC interface to adjust the left and right stop gains. If the problem still does not go away, reduce the servo travel limit for right pitch if the stops from left hand turns are bouncy, and reduce the left pitch travel if stops from right hand turns are bouncy.
I am running a high gyro gain, but the stops from high-speed pirouettes are still too slow.
The maximum available tail thrust is too low. The best ways of increasing the tail authority are: increase the pitch range of the tail; change the tail gear ratio to increase the tail rotor rpm (only possible on some machines); increase the length of the tail blades. Caution: when increasing the tail blade lengths, check that there is still sufficient clearance between the tail blades and main blades. If you cannot increase the tail blade length, then increase the chord of the tail blades.
The model twitches erratically and violently in yaw.
If you are using a belt-driven tail, then the problem is probably static electricity. If this problem is not sorted, then it may cause damage to the electronics on your helicopter. An anti-static spray on the belt is the easiest solution. It is also possible to get grounding systems which ground the electricity safely.
